Olive oil is the flavorful, good-for-you oil extracted from tree-ripened olives, grown in particularly Mediterranean countries such as Spain, Greece, Tunisia, Italy and France. California produces the bulk of homegrown olive oil.
Like wine
An olive oil is like a wine—its taste and aroma are a reflection of the varieties of olives it’s made from, where and how those olives grow, and the way that the oil is made. In addition, many—if not most—olive oils are blends from different varieties of olives.
For example, one of the favored olives of Italy is the Moraiolo, which gives an oil that is aromatic and highly savory (it is the hallmark of “peppery” Tuscan oil). Another common Italian olive is the Leccino, sought after for its rich and creamy texture. The two are often blended.
On the other hand, the Spanish don’t raise these sorts of olive trees. Instead—like Spanish winemakers who favor Tempranillo over Sangiovese—they choose to plant and harvest Spanish olive trees, such as the Arbequiña for its sweet, fruity, often smoky oil.
And on it goes, from country to country. (In America, we have moved away from producing olive oil from the California Mission olive—they’re what’s in every can of supermarket black olives—to using European olives of various sorts.)
Grades of oil
The various grades of olive oil (for one example, “extra virgin”) depend on the level of oleic acidity in the finished oil and how that acidity is balanced with the other elements in the oil. Acidity levels are the result of the ripeness of the picked olives—just as with any fruit—and how the oil was extracted from them.
Low acidity is favored overall, but does not necessarily guarantee high quality. For instance, high-acid olive oil can be refined by charcoal filtration to lower its acidity. While the low acidity is a plus, the refining process strips the oil of the dual appeals of flavor and aroma.
Of virgins and violations
“Extra virgin olive oil” must have an oleic acidity level lower than 1%. In addition, many countries that produce extra virgin olive oils submit the oils to a sensory assessment by experts before any classification is either granted or denied.
Extra virgin olive oil comes from only the first pressing of the crushed olives, without using any other method of extraction—for instance, steam or solvents. (Two variants on pressing are the centrifuge, and the “sinolea” method that exploits the superficial tension between water and oil.)
“Virgin” olive oil is likewise extracted via a first pressing only, except that the acidity level, in this case, must be between 1%-2%.
All other olive oils—“pure,” “light,” or simple “olive oil”—have various levels of oleic acidity (up to, but rarely including, 4%) and can be made in a number of ways that may include various sorts of pressings, or heat or chemical extraction or refinement.
By the way, “light” olive oil has the same caloric content as any other olive oil. The term merely refers to the near absence of aroma or flavor, both of which have been refined out of the oil.
Choosing
Again, olive oil is like wine—chosen for specific tastes, aromas and textures.
Good oil should, in any case, smell of fruity olives (no surprise), even if the range of aromas is varied. Tastes can be delivered delicately, forthrightly or assertively, and can be punctuated with flavors of apple, almond, hay, green leaves, pepper, or more.
The texture of extra virgin olive oil is often important, especially when it is used plainly. Oils can be light, medium-bodied or viscous—and are chosen accordingly.
All in all, a good oil should be balanced, its various components aligned in a pleasing harmony.
Cooking
Because extra virgin olive oils are costly, generally very fragrant and flavorful, save them for savory uses: in salad dressings; as a drizzle on meats, fish, poultry or vegetables; for dipping or seasoning bread or vegetables (perhaps infused with spices or fresh herbs).
It isn’t best to use extra virgin olive oils for frying or sautéing, both because they and have a lower smoking point than most other olive oils and due to their pronounced taste and aroma. All other olive oils, however, are well suited to frying and sautéing, especially where you desire an absence of noticeable olive oil personality.
Storing
Store olive oils in temperate, dark conditions for up to six months. You may refrigerate them for up to a year, though they will cloud up and partially gel. Bringing them to room temperature will clarify and liquefy them, however, with no damage at all.
Health benefits
Olive oil, a monounsaturated fat, is the healthiest of all oils—plant or animal. It reduces cholesterol; lowers blood pressure; helps regulate the body’s blood sugar level; is a powerful antioxidant; and may assist in preventing colon and breast cancer.
Nonetheless, it is a fat and, as such, contains about 120 calories a tablespoon.
Olive oil:
Like wine—a reflection of types of olives, where they’re grown, how they’re pressed
Most comes from Mediterranean area (Spain, Italy, Greece, Tunisia, France)
Various grades refer to balance of overall acidity
“Extra virgin” is best because acidity low and in best balance
Use extra virgin olive oils for dressings, dips, drizzles
Use all other olive oils for sautéing or frying
Keep all oils in temperate, dark conditions—or refrigerate
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